Not so very long ago here in the upper Midwest, pizza meant only a few things. It meant cheesy square-cut pies, cheesy triangle-cut pies, and cheesy frozen pies. And pizza being like sex in that it's good even when it's bad, we didn't mind! It's pizza, and some pizza is better than no pizza. Now, in relatively no time at all, we're living in an upper Midwest where we speak in terms of crumb, gluten percentages, fermentation time, and wood-fire. We think nothing of how far we've come. But we've come very far. And Steve Lott and his St. Paul pizzeria, Big River Pizza, may be the embodiment of a quintessential pizza crossroads, of Minnesota and Italy and beyond. Read our full review here. Photos by Alma Guzman.