The Super Bowl and nachos. Valentine’s Day and chocolate. Brunch at Meritage and duck fat potatoes. They’re all perfect pairs. And while the Super Bowl and Valentine’s Day only come around once a year, brunch happens every weekend, giving you 52 chances to enjoy a civilized morning meal — and these golden nuggets. The potatoes are listed on the menu as a side dish, but they steal the show.
Duck fat is one of those magical ingredients that makes everything cooked with it taste better. It adds a depth of flavor and crispness without imparting “duckiness.” The brunch potatoes at Meritage are shining examples of this alchemy. They arrive at the table golden and crispy, almost puffed on the outside while pillowy and creamy on the inside. A sprinkling of fragrant rosemary enhances the enticing aroma. And perhaps it’s beside the point — after all, one bite will send all cares about carbs and fat out the window — but duck fat is closer nutritionally to olive oil than it is to other animal fats, so that makes it almost a health food.
410 St. Peter St., St. Paul