You aced your Class B motor vehicle test. You won the Nobel Prize. You just found out Aunt Nedra left you the millions you thought were going to Mr. Chunky. You want steak. You'd prefer the steak to be the kind that yields to the gentle yet firm pressure of a silver butter knife. Murray's is your place. Its gleaming, mirrored walls and swishy pink curtains recall prom night 1946, or your grandparents' third dinner date. The restaurant is classy in a Nat King Cole kind of way, and the silver butter knife steak will drive you out of your mind and into your local credit union for a cash advance. At $85 for two, it's tender and perfectly textured, it gives completely at the tiniest tooth-mark, and food writers have been known to avoid writing about the thing lest their prose become inappropriate for a family newspaper. Ah, Murray's: The spirit is willing and the flesh is medium-rare (or, actually, however you like it).

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