It's not so much that Sapor is a vegetarian restaurant, or even a fish- and chicken-serving one with a veggie aesthetic. It's that Sapor does to meatless entrees what it does to all of them: Chef Tanya Siebenaler and manager and wine fan Julie Steenerson seem to turn everything they put on a plate or into a glass several degrees off any route yet traveled, making their vegetarian specials and seasonally replaced menu items really, truly new—and friendly. As of this writing, there's a black rice blini topped with a plum sauce served atop a bed of sautéed spring vegetables. There's a spinach torta in a potato crust, a lunch-sized salad of chiogga beets with Schwarz und Weiss blue cheese and arugula, and a semolina flatbread topped with a feta, onions, olives, and red wine vinegar. The bar-snack menu offers half a dozen creative, tempting, tapa-sized vegetarian items. And if you can do fish, you really can rule the world. Sapor also has a nicely priced wine list boasting unique bottles and accommodating by-the-glass prices.

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