The thing you're looking for most when you trundle the kids off for a meal is solidarity. Oh yeah, you may want high chairs or some certainty that there will be mac and cheese on the menu. But, mostly, you want to know that when your Junior dumps his fries on the floor ("Uh-oh, Mama, uh-oh!") somebody else two tables over just missed having their Junior do the same thing, and so won't screw up his face in disapproval. By that measure, Yum! is positively crawling with solidarity. And little Juniors. When you go, however, make sure that the kids are good and distracted by their pasta. You're going to want a moment to concentrate on your own food: hearty tortilla soup that's all about the toppings, a crispy-juicy half chicken on lemony linguine, cunning little mini tuna burgers, rosy, flaky salmon. And, most importantly, your wine. Think about that next time you're contemplating drive-through Happy Meals. That famous red-haired clown never serves you wine. Yum!, run by longtime Twin Cities restaurateur Patti Soskin, also sells deli and bakery items (including the best challah in town).

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