There are many ways to judge the excellence of a dim sum palace, but for us, the decisive factor has always been dumplings. Mandarin Kitchen has the most: chive flower dumplings, with their dark greens peeking through the translucent wrappers; cilantro dumplings, fragrant with herbs; pork dumplings that are fat and wide as grins; pork dumplings with quail eggs; pork dumplings with cheerful squares of carrot; dumplings topped with quivering sea scallops; soup dumplings, bursting with broth; and, of course, shrimp dumplings of every possible form and style. Of course, Mandarin Kitchen has everything else you want in dim sum: hot chow fun noodles, crunchy vegetables, taro cakes, sea cucumber salad, tiny red-oil squid, congee, sticky rice pressed with edible treasures into bowls and steamed inside leaves, and enough room to fit in you, your family, and everyone in your whole office.

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