Some things never ever change, and they never ever should. Matt's Bar, "home of the Jucy Lucy," looks no different than it did 30 years ago, except nowadays you don't have to squint through your neighbor's cigarette smoke to see the game on TV. Same oval, red plastic baskets loaded with skinless fries, same Jucy Lucys—two thin beef patties squeezed around a layer of gooey American cheese, grilled till the beef is crisply charred and the cheese is molten, the bursting oval served on a squishy white bun. Be sure to request either a mound of minced, browned onions, or a pile of raw, thinly sliced ones. Sit down and let the beef, char, molten cheese, and onion work their magic. If you want wine or foie gras, look elsewhere, it's a burger joint in the lawns-and-chores heart of south Minneapolis, okay? (It does offer a pretty good grilled cheese and a chicken sandwich, but no salad, thank you very much). There's nothing fancy about the slightly gristly, moist but not too greasy, two-handed bombs they serve here—but you don't need fancy when you got great. For $4.50 a go, Matt's Jucy Lucys are so great, you might need two.

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