It's a wonder Barbette's wildly popular fries aren't regulated by the state; serving them from 8:00 a.m. to 1:00 a.m. seems a bit much for the public morals. These darling hand-cut irregulars are fried in small batches to crispy caramel perfection; tender and fluffy within, they taste like potatoes that went to Paris and came back with advanced degrees in art and style. They are served with a ramekin of luscious golden saffron aioli, that addictively smooth, garlic mayonnaise that you'd better not eat alone—though to judge by the number of other diners eating the fries, you never will. Of course, Barbette does serve other temptations: a fine plate of mussels, lovely cheeses, adorable French toast, and even full chef-made dinners, but skipping the fries would be like going to Paris and never glancing up to catch sight of the Eiffel Tower.

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