It's gotta be a rule that fanciness and great barbecue are mutually exclusive. We've just never found decent ribs in a place with padded booths and linen tablecloths. Lee and Dee Smith have been churning out the Cities' most consistently excellent barbecue for 15 years, and their little restaurant's biggest claim to fanciness is a rabbit-eared TV mounted on one wall. Their pork sandwiches are hearty enough for any appetite and dripping with rich, tangy sauce; the ribs are slow-cooked until the meat falls off the bone. If you're tired of the muddy, flour-battered catfish common to the North, try a taste of Lee's and Dee's flaky, cornmeal-battered fillets for a refreshing change of pace. But the dish perhaps most indicative of true Southern cooking (and great for sopping up sauce) is the cornbread, cooked in a flat pan, cut into squares, and salty, not sweet.