Despite the line stretching out the door, Midway’s Russian Tea House is easy to miss. For four-plus decades, the husband-wife team of Nikolai and Linda Alenov has served homemade vereniki stroganoff, pel’meni, borscht, “Russian hamburgers,” and more from the lower floor of a white house alongside a Wendy’s parking lot. These days, they’re open just four hours each week: Fridays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Linda takes orders with grace while Nikolai steadily assembles each meal behind her, including frozen items many customers bring home. (They shuttered this winter, but plan to reopen soon.) Everything is carried upstairs on trays and enjoyed from disposable cups and bowls on the house’s top floor. Sometimes, unpredictably, there’s an accordionist. It’s the kind of charming operation that feels like a treasure—sustaining the heart as much as the body.