We Midwesterners cling to Cantonese the way we cling to our burgers, fries, and mashed potatoes and gravy. In other words, the neighborhood Chinese takeout joint is pure American comfort, and don’t fuss with it too much, please. So now that “second generation” Chinese is upon us, how lucky we are to have Dumpling, where they love the corner chow mein place as much as the rest of us do. Bunbob Chhun and James Munson dreamed of a place where they could get the classics — lo mein, beef with broccoli, egg rolls — but better. They sell all of those here, in the old Ming’s Palace space, where they’ve preserved Ming’s wings recipe. But now with your egg rolls, get a MeiMei’s Collins (named after Mei Mei Wong, original co-owner of Ming’s) with sake, snap peas, lime, and Squirt. Don’t be fooled by modernist touches, though. Dumpling is a true-to-American-Chinese place through and through. You can taste it in the sweet and sour shrimp, the cream cheese wontons, the handmade dumplings. It’s the neighborhood Chinese restaurant, just a little bit better, which makes it the best.
Readers’ Choice: Rainbow Chinese