It's no longer good enough to toss some beers and burgers on the bar, fling open the doors, and call your place a pub. Standards have grown exacting. We must have serious beers, beers that are the unamused professor, readers riding low on the tip of her nose: no-nonsense, thoughtful, and fortifying beers. And with these beers there of course must be food, and this food mustn't be cooked by some pimple-faced kid. We want a chef, in a crisp white coat, who knows what the hell to do with meats and fishes locally sourced, and we want it all served up in a space as reverently beautiful as a church. And it does not hurt if Irish drinking songs reverberate joyously throughout the tavern. The newly revamped Dan Kelly's in downtown Minneapolis has all of the above.