Goodness, has there been some sort of emergency? It might look that way walking into Scusi's bar to find a glass case of wine bottles connected to so many tubes they look like they're in an intensive care unit. But don't fret, it's just a fancy storage system used to keep wine fresh, as the hoses remove oxygen from an open bottle and replace it with nonreactive argon gas. Since Aperitif closed, Scusi is the only place in the metro to have such equipment, which allows the restaurant to open bottles of wine that would normally be too expensive to offer by the glass. If you prefer an inexpensive Morellino di Scansano to a pricier Barolo, good for you: You're a cheap date! But without Scusi's system, you would have had to splurge for a whole bottle of the less palatable stuff to learn which you like best. Always wanted to try Shafer One Point Five Cabernet but hesitated to spend at least $50 for a retail bottle? Scusi offers it by the quartino, an eight-ounce carafe, for $30. Scusi is also the first restaurant in town to offer kegged wine—a more efficient and eco-friendly option. So kudos to Scusi for curating a wine list that considers how wine is sold along with which wines are selected.