A proper Sunday brunch should begin the way one does at the Grand Cafe: hot tea served in a pretty painted pot or coffee that comes with a vintage cream-and-sugar service that befits the nostalgic-eclectic aesthetic of a bakery-café that's been feeding its neighbors for decades. The broad, white oven in the middle of Grand's dining room makes the place feel as cozy as a stove-heated cabin, as it radiates warmth and dispenses the daily breakfast pastries. The morning light shining through the windows evokes the leisure of curled-up cats sunning themselves silly. It's the ideal setting for one of Grand's perfectly poached eggs, glossy white orbs with thick orange yolks. We can never decide whether to have them Benedict style, with house-cured gravlax, asparagus, and a side of potato hash, or en cocotte, which means they arrive in a little ramekin, with a couple of puff pastry pillows bobbing atop a pool of truffle cream. The Ham and Cheese is not nearly a poetic enough descriptor for the Grand's delicious calzone-like preparation of Italian ham, smoked Brie, spinach, and dried tomatoes, stuffed into a tender, buttery brioche. Or should we have the brioche in French toast form, with whipped cream, orange caramel sauce, and toasted pistachios? It's hard to decide what to order at Grand—but anything you pick will make you happy. Even plain old toast is elevated to high art, served as a stack of thick, rustic, crusty-soft bread with a heaping helping of chunky, house-made jam.